How to Turn Thrift Store Knit Sheets Into T-Shirts

Here’s my handsome husband Jeff, wearing a t-shirt I made from a thrift store knit sheet. In my area, knit cotton sheets, depending on size, range in price from $1.99 to $2.99. I use the hem of the sheet to make the hem of the front, back and sleeves (a big time saver). Each sheet, as long as it is a full size or larger, offers enough hems to create two adult t-shirts (or three for children). There is still fabric left over for other shirts, undergarments, and pjs, though it all must be hemmed.

So if the sheet cost, at most, $2.99, and I made two t-shirts from it, that means each t-shirt cost, at most, $1.50, plus a bit for thread. But the inexpensive price is not the only benefit. By making our t-shirts this way, I make sure they fit well by working with the patterns for the best and most flattering fit. Store-bought t-shirts have never fit me well. I have a long torso and so t-shirts are always too short, making me look boxy.

I will walk you through the very easy process of turning knit sheets into t-shirts.

You Need

• knit sheet, washed and dried (soft and in good condition)
• a pattern (Kwik Sew makes excellent t-shirt patterns)
• Serger or sewing machine (see Threads’ Not Your Ordinary T-Shirt for technique, if using the latter)
• all-purpose thread

Serger Settings (if using)

• 3-thread overlock (wide)
• Stitch length between 4 and 5
• Differential set higher than 1.0 if fabric will stretch out (test on a scrap)
• Organ machine needles (light ball point which is ideal for sewing knits)
• stretchy thread such as Polyarn from Superior Threads, for serger loopers
• All purpose thread for the left needle
• Upper and lower looper tensions loosened to make a balanced stitch, accomodating for the stretchy thread (test on a scrap of knit and refer to your manual for the proper balancing)

Directions

1. Determine the direction of stretch. It will either be perpendicular or parallel to one of the sides, not diagonal. Gently pull about 4 inches of the fabric between your hands. Which direction stretches more? That is the direction of stretch. Remember it, or mark the fabric with an arrow. Note that the grainline is opposite to the direction of stretch.

2. Cut out the front, back and sleeves of the t-shirt. The front and back should be aligned along a fold in the sheet (see photo). Line up the grainline arrow of the pattern parallel to the grainline of the fabric (opposite to the stretch, remember). The direction of stretch should always go across the body or across the arm, never up and down.

In addition, align the bottom edge of the pattern piece (the hem) with the hem of the sheet, which saves you from having to hem the shirt at all. If you want the shirt to be just as long as your pattern, make your pattern piece extend 1 inch beyond the hem of the fabric. If you’re happy making the shirt 1 inch longer, then just make the edge of the pattern piece and the fabric flush. Keep in mind that whatever you do for the front, you have to do for the back.

Often a sheet will have a wide hem in the direction of stretch. That’s okay! It can even be good! A wide hem can offer a nice look for either a sleeve hem or the torso hem. However, if you’re going to use it for the front hem, use it for the back also, to keep the look uniform. Here’s an example of a sheet’s wide hem in use on a sleeve. I really like the look.

3. Cut out the binding strip for the neckline. The pattern instructions should direct you here. I recommend cutting a 2″ wide strip for a man’s t-shirt. For a woman’s t-shirt, a 1″ wide strip results in a feminine, narrow neckline binding, but can be wider, depending on the desired look. The length of the strip should be about 75% of the neck opening, plus 1/2″ for seam allowances (1/4″ at each end). For more information, please visit Threads’ Not Your Ordinary T-Shirt and scroll down to Tips For a Neat, Round Neck.

4. Follow pattern directions to construct the t-shirt. See also Threads’ Not Your Ordinary T-Shirt for additional tips.

Here are a few notes on securing serger thread tails. As I explained in another application, to hide the beginning thread tail, match up the front and back of the garment at the side seams, wrong sides out. Slide the top of the side seam (at the arm hem) under the presser foot immediately in front of the needles. Make a few stitches manually by turning the handwheel. Stop with the needle down. Use tweezers to grab the thread tails and bring them to the front, underneath the foot and into the line of stitching. Now machine-serge the rest of the side seam, catching the thread tails in the serger stitching. After a few inches, the thread tail can be pushed under the knife and clipped off.

To secure the ending thread tail, slow down as you approach the end of side seam. Take one stitch past the end, ending with the needle raised. Lift the presser foot, then gently pull out the garment, keeping it as close in there as you can while still able to maneuver it. Flip it upside down and re-insert it under the presser foot so that you’ll be serging on the side seam but in the opposite direction (from the bottom hem back toward the arm hem). Lower the presser foot and serge for another inch or two, slowly, taking care to keep your prior stitching out of the knife’s way. Now keep serging as you move the garment out from under the presser foot, leaving a thread tail hanging on the inside of the garment. Stop serging, cut off the thread tail while still 6″ to 8″ long. Knot it close to the seam, then clip it to 1″ or less.

Here are a bunch of t-shirts I made for Jeff from knit sheets, hanging in his closet. The ones I made are those in shades of light green to the bright blue, five in all. Yesterday, thrifting, I found an off-white cotton knit sheet. Its destiny is to be transformed into two more t-shirts and join the ranks.

© Copyright 2008 by Wardeh Harmon.