Applying Bias Tape as Binding at Neckline and Armhole Curves

Using bias tape as binding for necklines and armholes curves can be a great fabric-saver (no facings or linings) and time-saver (again, no facings or linings). Facings and linings often need pressing, while bindings don’t. This binding method is my procedure of choice for constructing the bodices of dresses, shirts, and tanks made from woven fabrics. Not knits. Knit bindings are another story.

The garment being constructed in the following instructions is an overdress made from an olive linen-blend.

Below is a package of bias tape, which I use as binding for neckline and armhole curves. This is an old package. I got it at a thrift store for 20 cents. Nowadays, the brand I see commercially is Wright’s.

The bias tape needed for this project is 1/2-inch single fold bias tape. Use a color that blends or is the same as the garment being constructed. The binding will be on the inside of the garment, so won’t be seen, but peeks can be had when you move. That’s why you wouldn’t want to use bias tape that contrasts.

You also may use self-made bias tape — on the bias (diagonal to the salvage and grain), cut 1-inch strips of the fabric used for the garment. I don’t recommend cutting strips either perpendicular or parallel to the salvage, as there will be no stretch in the binding. You need the binding to stretch around the neckline and armhole curves. In laziness, I once made my own non-bias tape by cutting perpendicular the salvage and found the resulting neckline and arm-holes to feel tight.

The single-fold bias tape comes like this, with both raw edges folded in toward the middle. It is called 1/2-inch bias tape, but its total width is actually 1-inch.

Press it open.

Press it folded in half, so that the raw edges meet. Do a careful job. Seam allowances are only 1/8-inch, so any inaccuracies in pressing may result in an edge of the bias tape not getting sewed in to the seam.

All edges to be bound by bias tape should be trimmed down to 1/8-inch seam allowance. Consult your pattern for the seam allowance included with the garment and trim away all but 1/8-inch.

The neckline should be open somewhere — either at the center back (for a closure, which is what I’ll be showing here; or at a shoulder seam, which will be closed later). Stay-stitch very close to the edge — about 1/16th of an inch from the edge. Those stitching marks are drawn in with GIMP. The stay-stitching prevents the curved edge from stretching out when applying the bias tape.

Using an 1/8-inch seam allowance, on the right side of the garment and matching the raw edges of the bias tape and the neckline, stitch the bias tape to the neckline.

Here, the bias tape is finished being stitched to the right side of the garment at the neckline.

Press the seam allowance down and the bias binding up.

Press the bias tape to the inside of the garment. If using a different color binding than the garment, press a little of the garment to the inside also. This will prevent “peeks” of another color showing when wearing the garment and moving around.

From the inside of the garment, and 1/4-inch away from the neckline edge, stitch the folded edge of the bias tape down. Since this stitching will be visible on the outside, make sure the thread in the bobbin is a color that works with the garment.

The bias tape is stitched down.

Repeat the same process to add bias tape to the armhole curves. Once again, a seam should be left open, so that the tape can be applied flat. In this case, leaving each side seam open is the best choice.

The bias tape for the armholes has been pressed to the inside and stitched down via the same procedure as with the neckline binding.

To finish the back closure opening, serge finish the edges of the bias tape together with the edges of the center back opening. Press the fabric at each side of the opening to the inside of the garment, 1/2-inch. If not using a serger to finish the raw edges of the garment (as shown here), the fabric should be turned under twice, to enclose the raw edges of the center back seam.

Starting on the top-right side of the opening, top-stitch 1/4-inch away from the right edge down to below the point where the center back seam stitching stops. Note: Stitching the center back seam is not part of this tutorial. Pivot and stitch across under this point. Pivot again and come up the left side of the opening, again 1/4-inch from the edge of the opening. Backstitch at the beginning and ending of this stitching. Pull outside threads to the inside; knot and trim. Now you may add whatever closure you prefer. I typically attach a ribbon loop to the left side, which will wrap around a button sewed to the right side.

Note: If one shoulder seam, rather than the center back seam, was left open to apply the neckline binding, then it should be closed in the same manner as the armhole curves (following).

It is time to stitch the side seams. Here I will show how I serge them and enclose the thread tails in one step. Note: When using a serger to construct a garment, it is helpful to trim the side seam allowances down to 1/4-inch, so all serging can be done at the edge of the garment, as shown below. Consult your pattern for the seam allowance included with the garment and trim away all but 1/4-inch.

Match up the front and back of the garment at the side seams, wrong sides out. Slide the top of the side seam (at the underarm point) under the presser foot immediately in front of the needles. Make a few stitches manually by turning the handwheel. Stop with the needle down. Use tweezers to grab the thread tails and bring them to the front, underneath the foot and into the line of stitching. Now machine-serge the rest of the side seam, catching the thread tails in the serger stitching. After a few inches, the thread tail can be pushed under the knife and clipped off. Do not worry about thread tails at the end of the side seam, for these will be enclosed in the hem. Repeat for the other side seam.

If not using a serger, stitch with sewing machine, following the pattern’s instructions for seam allowance.

The inside of the garment’s side seam. See the thread tail caught in the stitching? Also, the ends of the bias tape are secure in the seam.

The outside of the garment, at the underarm point, showing the side seam wrapping the bias-bound edge to the inside.

And that is how to apply bias tape as binding for neckline and armhole curves.