Such Treasures

I have a pretty good fit on a basic set-in sleeve t-shirt for Jeff. That’s great and very encouraging. I’m happy about that. Here are the 3 finished pattern pieces for that. Some design details are not included, such as the finished neckline nor length he desires.

 
Last night I began the conversion of the above set-in sleeve pattern to raglan sleeves. I made a mark on my pattern where I wanted the raglan sleeve line to be (marked by the arrow in the picture below). I laid the sleeve up to it, matching the shoulder points and the point where the sleeve & arm curve intersected along the raglan sleeve line. I taped the sleeve to the front there and cut along the new raglan sleeve line, which made the top part of the front go along to become part of the sleeve front. The picture shows where I cut.

I did the same for the back, making the top part of the back go along to become part of the sleeve back. Make sense?

Now here is where I’m stumped. There’s a natural dart created there along the shoulder seam (see picture below). This dart would be necessary if I were making a shirt out of a woven fabric because the fabric would have to curve 2 ways there. But since I’m using knit and it will handle the 2 curves just fine, I need to eliminate that dart — while keeping the shoulder seam and sleeve length the same and while keeping the raglan sleeve line (created above) the same length. To where do I transfer this dart? How do I eliminate it? That is my problem. You can see how wrinkled my paper is because I tried for too long last night to manipulate it into lying flat.

I also wonder about those extra holes there (marked by ???). Do I just fill those in with fabric and not worry about it? Am I way off track? Have I done something wrong?

Can anybody help me? Pretty, please?